1973 Aussie Moke

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cr0we
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri May 22, 2020 6:08

1973 Aussie Moke

Post by cr0we »

Had a poke around the engine today as the sun was out and I'd just bought a new battery from Halfords. I photographed everything I could see that had a id number of some sort on it.
Block.jpg
Emissions.jpg
Engine.jpg
It's not been started for about two years so it was no surprise that it turned over but didn't fire up. The plugs look in good condition and at least one of them was sparking. Maybe fuel not getting through or bunged up carb so will investigate further. I had a look around the carb and noticed a pipe next to the fuel inlet which wasn't attached to anything. The Haynes didn't help identify it so can anyone tell me what it is and what it should be connected to? Can anyone tell me if it is an HS2 or HS4 in case I need to get service parts for it?
Pipe.jpg
I thought I'd take off the distributor cap to see if it all looked okay. I have never had to look inside one before but I was a bit surprised to see nothing at all inside the cap except for a rotor arm which looks incomplete. Shouldn't there be points and stuff in there? How is it producing a spark if the rotor arm does not connect with the nodes inside the distributor cap attached to the HT leads? I've emailed my dad to see if it has somehow been converted to electronic ignition.
Dizzy.jpg
Rotor Arm.jpg
Loads to do but no hurry!
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Nigel(no top)Sykes
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Re: 1973 Aussie Moke

Post by Nigel(no top)Sykes »

The carb is a HIF.........38 I would suspect. The pipe, I think is an overflow pipe, it directs any excess petrol away from the exhaust manifold and down onto the road. There should be an extension pipe on the brass bit.
There will be no points in the dizzy as it’s a later model one with electronic ignition. ( I thin it’s a 65D), the rotor arm is missing the metal bit though so you’ll want a new one of those
At least can add up

Nigel(no top)Sykes
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Re: 1973 Aussie Moke

Post by Nigel(no top)Sykes »

By the way. You won’t get any sparks with that rotor arm!!
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cr0we
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Joined: Fri May 22, 2020 6:08

Re: 1973 Aussie Moke

Post by cr0we »

Rotor arm ordered from Eurocarparts and I will pick it up tomorrow!

Nigel(no top)Sykes
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Re: 1973 Aussie Moke

Post by Nigel(no top)Sykes »

And a new cap??
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cr0we
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri May 22, 2020 6:08

Re: 1973 Aussie Moke

Post by cr0we »

Nothing constructive to report as I am currently incapacitated by tonsillitis, but feeling a little better today I had a mosey into the garage to investigate something.

I have had some discussions with fellow members about my Moke's VIN number (is it VIN? I don't know what it would be called on a 1973 Aussie car). My 1973 Moke has lived in Cyprus since 1975, so most of its life really, until coming to me in England last month. It came to me with its Cyprus registration document bearing the number beginning 1BAB. It was suggested that an Aussie Moke would have a number beginning YJBAB which seemed to fit as the Greek language apparently does not have any equivalent for the letters Y and J. That all made sense and fits with the 10YFUH engine number.

Anyway, reading a bit on the Aussie Moke forum earlier, I saw a picture of exactly where to look for the number in the engine bay. Not on a plate, as I had expected, but just stamped into the metal. I had a look today, and after cleaning off a bit of light surface rust, I found out that the little ripples and dents just to the side of the radiator were in fact a faint set of crudely hammered in numbers beginning 1BAB. Quite hard to read, but with the registration document in front of me, it is clear that the numbers do correspond.
P1020480.jpg
And it has just occurred to me, as I write this, that the letter Y in the engine number is right there on the Cypriot reg document so why ditch the Y in the VIN number and keep the Y in the engine number? The mystery deepens. I have just joined the Aussie forum and will ask around there for any info.

I know it all doesn't really matter much in the grand scheme of things, the point is to get the car up to scratch and out cruising the streets. However, I have been ill and in pain for days and I'm sooooooo bored. It's nice to have something else to think about :D :D.
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Tim
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Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 0:41
Location: Hobart, Tasmania, Australia

Re: 1973 Aussie Moke

Post by Tim »

cr0we wrote:
Fri Oct 23, 2020 15:25
Not on a plate, as I had expected, but just stamped into the metal.
I know, crazy right? Why would you want the number to stay with the car for life?

Sarcasm aside, I've never worked out why the numbers that identify UK built cars are attached so flimsily. In fact the more important the number is, the easier it is to remove. Australian numbers are stamped directly into the body or the engine block. The body number is usually in the radiator shroud on a Moke and occasionally under the driver's seat. It makes ringing that bit harder.

Tim
Any sarcastic, ignorant, libellous, unfounded or stupid opinions expressed in or through this message are the opinions of the author and do not reflect the opinions or views of any member of The Mini Moke Club or the opinions or views of any other individual.

cr0we
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri May 22, 2020 6:08

Re: 1973 Aussie Moke

Post by cr0we »

Tim wrote:
Tue Oct 27, 2020 3:27


I know, crazy right? Why would you want the number to stay with the car for life?


:mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Nigel(no top)Sykes
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Re: 1973 Aussie Moke

Post by Nigel(no top)Sykes »

I know, crazy right? Why would you want the number to stay with the car for life?

That’s because we refined folk of these sceptred isles would never consider such devious tactics :D
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cr0we
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri May 22, 2020 6:08

Re: 1973 Aussie Moke

Post by cr0we »

Fitted my new rotor arm today but it's still not wanting to fire up so I thought I'd get the carb off to see if it is blocked. First I disconnected the fuel inlet pipe and discovered that it was in fact bone dry. Then I disconnected the pipe from the fuel tank just before the fuel filter which was also bone dry but blowing into it revealed that it is not blocked. So that points to a non-functioning fuel pump I guess. I have a mini manual which says that some pumps are electric and some are mechanical and of the mechanical ones, some are serviceable and some are not. I think I have a mechanical one but I have decided to bite the bullet and buy the official Mini and Moke Workshop Manual from the club shop to get the right information.

I'm sure I've seen somewhere that there is an alternative electric pump made by Facet that some Moke owners have used. I've used Facet pumps before on both of my Honda Africa Twin motorbikes after one oe pump failure and lack of confidence in the longevity of the other one (a well known weak point on an otherwise awesome bike). Anyone know the Facet model to use?

cr0we
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri May 22, 2020 6:08

Re: 1973 Aussie Moke

Post by cr0we »

I removed the fuel pump at the weekend to see if it is a serviceable part. It is not! And I think it is seized. How much movement should there be at the lever? The lever on my pump doesn't move much more than a millimeter I'd say so I don't think it's going to do much pumping.
I've ordered a new pump, gaskets, fuel pipe and fuel filter anyway.

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