65 uk Moke Restoration

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j Beeton
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Re: 65 uk Moke Restoration

Post by j Beeton » Fri Jan 01, 2016 21:50

I will do someting similar, ....

regarding the fuel tank sender unit , the type fitted to my tank consists of an alumium enclosure which has fitted inside a simple wire resistor and a sliding contact , when the arm with float attached moves the resistance changes in the circuit .
This enclosure does not seem to be sealed with any sealer so as the unit will be immersed in fuel when tank full is there not a risk of an electrical spark exploding the fuel or fuel vapour which will get inside the sender ?? :?
or should the unit be sealed for immersion?



Regards James

j Beeton
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Re: 65 uk Moke Restoration

Post by j Beeton » Sun Jan 03, 2016 19:34

hi All,
Have spent the weekend working on the car, the rear subfrrame is now fully assembled with all new brake parts and hoses etc.. It is now ready to bolt to the body shell :D .
I also had a brain wave regarding the wiring looms.. The loom to the rear was very tatty so I cut off the outer woven and rotten sheathing, the cables were fine so i bought 5m of 13mm heat shrink sheathing from maplins ( not the cheapest ) but availble in store so I went for it. This was perfect size for the cables that run to the fuel pump and beyond to the rear lights. Fitted this over the cables and shrunk via B&D heat gun and bingo perfectly wrapped wiring loom, looks much better than tape...
Today I flatted down the front grill panel as the paint spray work was sh*t and resprayed , now much better... I also cleaned up all the light fittings ready to refit.
So some progress now....finally...
Next easy task is to fit the tank - I will get a new sender unit first as I am not happy with the original one I have.
I will then build up the front subframe ...

now cooking. food...James

Nigel(no top)Sykes
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Re: 65 uk Moke Restoration

Post by Nigel(no top)Sykes » Sun Jan 03, 2016 21:57

If you're looking at the fuel sender and possible replacement of, you could do worse than reading this article
It certainly helped when I did mine as senders of the correct type weren't available then.

http://www.moke.com.au/in-the-garage/re ... der-repair
At least can add up

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spider
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Re: 65 uk Moke Restoration

Post by spider » Mon Jan 04, 2016 6:32

If your stuck for a sender, I have a few new ones here.
Old Mokers never die, they just smell that way.

j Beeton
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Re: 65 uk Moke Restoration

Post by j Beeton » Mon Mar 07, 2016 19:42

Hi All, well works are moving forward on my resto., with front subframe now built up with suspension fitted etc, next I am going to fit the engine to the subframe and then lift the body over to install....should be fun. Brake lines will be completed within next couple of weeks, all lights have been cleaned up and and ready to refit.

A question, as I cannot find any original English metal seats for the car I have been offered a pair of genuine early Portugese Moke front seats to fit.
These look pretty good but will need to be recovered and I have a quote to do that.
How do these fit in the car, do the require subframes ? or do the bolt to the same central cross member that the proper seats would do? advsie please bfore I go ahead and refurbish them...
They look as if they would be pretty comfortable so I am keen to get something to sit on for L2B!!!!

j Beeton
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Re: 65 uk Moke Restoration

Post by j Beeton » Sun Mar 20, 2016 18:46

Hi all, more work this weekend , and soem rectification of mistakes!! I fitted the lower suspension arms on wrong sides so hubs would not fit as the tapers were upside down...doh!! ah well you live and learn... anyway some hlep needed:
Regarding thebrake pipe to the rear on the RHS. what route does this take through the rear subframe? does he pipe go over the top or underneath?. Also at the front bulkhead hole does the pipe go through as the battery lead also follows this route?
I have fitted the tie rods on the front, but am not sure how many "penny " washers are needed to be fitted and how tight the front nut needs to be ? as this will pull on the lower arm the greater it is tightened and surely will alter hub angle or is that not to worry about.

Hope some one can answer so i can continue building the car up..... thanks James

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Wally2
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Re: 65 uk Moke Restoration

Post by Wally2 » Sun Mar 20, 2016 22:42

Hi James,
The brake pipe to the rear on my moke goes down the front bulkhead, between the bulkhead and the front subframe and then travels under the floor at the side of the tunnel to the rear. It then goes below the rear sub frame and connects onto the pressure regulating valve which is mounted on the subframe. From the valve each pipe goes through the side frame to the flexible connector.
According to the manual the tie rod has two rubber pads, a cup washer and a plain (penny) washer and the nut, it doesn't give a torque value for the nut. It wont affect the hub angle as the rubbers go either side of the mounting bracket on the subframe and the last washer goes up against a step on the rod.
I can take some photos if you need them, just let me know.
Cheers
Chris
Chris
WEEMOKE
JUX180D

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spider
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Re: 65 uk Moke Restoration

Post by spider » Mon Mar 21, 2016 18:22

Hey James,

Easy mistake to make, as on the bench, the arms look pretty much the same as each other, but it's one you sure won't do again!

Just regarding the Brake Line route, I haven't seen a UK Moke (well, one that hasn't been messed with :roll: ) however it appears that the Brake Line originally routed through the inner wing and then down through the side boxes, similar to how ours are;-

Image

(Hope you are able to see that OK)
Old Mokers never die, they just smell that way.

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Wally2
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Re: 65 uk Moke Restoration

Post by Wally2 » Mon Mar 21, 2016 21:24

Hi,
Going through the side pod with the brake line would seem a better route which would protect the line far better than going under the car (like mine!) I assume that the guy who restored took the easy way out. The use of an in line connector (item 15) would make fitting the pipe within the side pod easier.
Chris
Chris
WEEMOKE
JUX180D

j Beeton
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Re: 65 uk Moke Restoration

Post by j Beeton » Mon Mar 28, 2016 18:17

Thanks Guys, The original route was through the drivers side paniers so that is what i will do , there are some very useful photos on moke panels web site so i now know what to do...

anyway this easter weekend I have made major progress, i managed to get the engine onto the subframe and bolted up, i then jacked up little by little the subframe and pushed a skate underneath so I could wheel the whole assembly under the body . This turned out to be a relatively simple task and i managed to do it single handledy! I lifted the front of the shell up and rested on some wooden supports, i then got a jack under the front of the floor pan with a wooden beam fitted with foam softening pads , this was then raised to take the weight of the car shell . I then pushed the whole subframe/engine assembly under the front and lighned up by site . I was then able to gently lower the shell down over the assembly and with a little adjusting of the skate position and pulling engine forwards i got the shell down over the whole lot! The front mount holes were almost perfectly in line so bolts in finger tight . I then had to use a smaller jack to lift the rear of the subframe to the floor pan, this also brought the turret fixings into alighnment so the 4 x bolts were dropped in and hand tightened, the rear subframe bolts were then easily located by use of the small jack and bingo job done :D .

I have seom photos so wil try to post.....

A question though, I bought some shoulder bolts for the radiator top mount , but these are to short as there seems to be a round a 12mm gap between rad and the bracket . The bottom mounts are fine and as they are are fixed there is no error there. I cannot see anyphotos anywhere of the top fixings clearly to work out if i have assembled something incorrectly, When i dismantled i remeber there were some large nuts fitted under the top bracket acting as spacers?......any ideas.... :? .

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Drake
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Re: 65 uk Moke Restoration

Post by Drake » Mon Mar 28, 2016 18:34

Glad you're making progress. Look forward to seeing some update pics. Have you a rough idea on completion?

Nigel(no top)Sykes
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Re: 65 uk Moke Restoration

Post by Nigel(no top)Sykes » Wed Mar 30, 2016 18:51

There are, from memory, a few different radiator top brackets over the years. This will be to take in to account the different mini models. Yours being "non standard" could well need a custom top bracket making up....perhaps you could bend an existing bracket to fit?
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spider
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Re: 65 uk Moke Restoration

Post by spider » Thu Mar 31, 2016 2:48

j Beeton wrote: A question though, I bought some shoulder bolts for the radiator top mount , but these are to short as there seems to be a round a 12mm gap between rad and the bracket . The bottom mounts are fine and as they are are fixed there is no error there. I cannot see anyphotos anywhere of the top fixings clearly to work out if i have assembled something incorrectly, When i dismantled i remeber there were some large nuts fitted under the top bracket acting as spacers?......any ideas.... :? .
Under the heads of the bolts are flat washer on each and in the bracket itself there's a rubber grommet.
Old Mokers never die, they just smell that way.

Dean
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Re: 65 uk Moke Restoration

Post by Dean » Thu Mar 31, 2016 9:27

Time to get that camera?
Dean

j Beeton
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Re: 65 uk Moke Restoration

Post by j Beeton » Sun Apr 03, 2016 18:18

Got the camera , but still find uploading photos a complete faff!!... :?
Work moving on at a good pace and car is now standing on its own four feet for the first time in 18 months :D :D
Had to rebuild the front wheel bearings this week , , removed cleaned and refitted .

I now have a pair of Portugese Moke seats totally reupholstered , and they look fab. I i have had them done in black vinyl and dark green piping which matches the coluor of the car :D . I know these are not original to the car but in the abscence of any steel seats for sale anywhere I will happily use these , they are after all moke parts and are very comfortable to perch on...

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