Tyres

Post by **Doug G** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 0:53

I have to change from 175 tyres back to 160.

The stud and nut at the rear of the chassis carved a groove into the tyre about 1/4 inches deep.

Post by **Dean** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 1:07

What stud and nut?
175/13 is standard on most Aussie Mokes, maybe your stud and nut isn't?
Dean

Post by **Doug G** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 1:15

Facing the rear left wheel arch with the wheel and tyre removed it is on the right hand side and holds on a big washer (about 1.5" in diameter) just below the rear body pan base.

You can also see it from the rear and is above the chassis cross beam(?)

Seems to hold in some sort of bushing.

Post by **Dean** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 1:40

That is the rear subframe mounting. Are you saying the stud is touching the tyre sidewall? I have just checked my Moke and there is about a fingers width clearance between the tyre and stud. It sounds like this is not a tyre size issue but is something to do with the wheels you recently fitted. Where did you get the wheels from?
Also, do you have the correct brake drums fitted?
Dean.

Post by **Doug G** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 2:35

dean wrote:That is the rear subframe mounting. Are you saying the stud is touching the tyre sidewall? I have just checked my Moke and there is about a fingers width clearance between the tyre and stud. It sounds like this is not a tyre size issue but is something to do with the wheels you recently fitted. Where did you get the wheels from?
Also, do you have the correct brake drums fitted?
Dean.

As you suggest it is probably the wheels/rims that were fitted.
BUT, the other side is not touching. Although it is almost there.
I have the seemingly original brake drums fitted. How can I tell if they are not correct?

Post by **Dean** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 3:28

Doug G wrote: I have the seemingly original brake drums fitted. How can I tell if they are not correct?

Do they look like this:

or this:

Dean

Tim · Post by **Tim** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 3:36

I don't know why but its really common for that bolt to be asymmetrical from side to side. On my Moke the LHS one comes quite close to the tyre, but on the right there's a lot of clearance, I've heard other people mention that too.

Doug, on your year model I think the correct drum is the intermediate spacer one, half-way between the flat faced drum in the top photo and the wide spacer one in the bottom photo.

Tim

Post by **Doug G** » Wed Jan 03, 2007 23:52

Tim wrote:I don't know why but its really common for that bolt to be asymmetrical from side to side. On my Moke the LHS one comes quite close to the tyre, but on the right there's a lot of clearance, I've heard other people mention that too.

Doug, on your year model I think the correct drum is the intermediate spacer one, half-way between the flat faced drum in the top photo and the wide spacer one in the bottom photo.

Tim

I think that you are right.

BUT if I had the wider spacer hub it would probably work OK.

Tim · Post by **Tim** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 0:47

The wider spacer one was used on later models (Minis and Mokes) and is now the most common, hence easiest to find, replacement. You would probably need to fit matching longer wheel studs to go with them.

Tim

Post by **Doug G** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 12:32

Tim wrote:The wider spacer one was used on later models (Minis and Mokes) and is now the most common, hence easiest to find, replacement. red]You would probably need to fit matching longer wheel studs to go with them[/color].

Tim

and there is the difficulty.

Post by **Nigel(no top)Sykes** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 18:57

Not really - If you are getting the later drums (with cast in spacer) presumably delivered from civilisation, then the studs will be available from the same place. They are a standard item.

Post by **Doug G** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 19:07

Nigel(no top)Sykes wrote:Not really - If you are getting the later drums (with cast in spacer) presumably red]delivered from civilisation[/color], then the studs will be available from the same place. They are a standard item.

Have you any idea whatsoever what the FedEx charges* would be ?

Mind you I'd have to have them set surface mail.

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* For the four brake/indicator lights the charges were over ÃÂ£80.00 and that is not including the 59.2 % duty etc on the CIF value.

carrie · Post by **carrie** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 20:39

Doug,

Looking back through your posts and the pic of your wheels the offset on your wheels is all wrong. That is what is causing the problem. The safest option is to get wheels with the correct offset. With putting spacers on there they are going to have to be pretty wide and then you will also have to increase the lenght of the studs. It is going to take a lot to push those out far enought not to hit that mounting. Another thing is you might have a knackered radius arm bearing on one side or the other.

Carrie and Phil

Post by **Doug G** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 23:01

carrieandphilc wrote:Doug,

Looking back through your posts and the pic of your wheels the offset on your wheels is all wrong. That is what is causing the problem. The safest option is to get wheels with the correct offset. With putting spacers on there they are going to have to be pretty wide and then you will also have to increase the lenght of the studs. It is going to take a lot to push those out far enought not to hit that mounting. Another thing is you might have a knackered radius arm bearing on one side or the other.

Carrie and Phil

You are correct about the offset.
However I changed back from 175's to 160's and the problem has gone.

Tim · Post by **Tim** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 23:14

Doug G wrote:Have you any idea whatsoever what the FedEx charges* would be ?

Get over it Doug, you're a Moke owner now.

Tim