Rod change selector shortening
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Rod change selector shortening
I see in Roy Scott's excellent new restoration book he mentions cutting the length of the selector shaft of a rod change box so that it can be used through the Mk1 magic wand hole in the tunnel thus enabling the use of the later and stronger 4 syncro A+ gearboxes.
Has anyone else done this and if so could you shed a bit more light on the subject?
I have a 1128 4 syncro remote box which i was intending to convert to magic wand but finding the parts is hard so looking at other options as I have a couple of A+ 'boxes lying about...
cheers
Has anyone else done this and if so could you shed a bit more light on the subject?
I have a 1128 4 syncro remote box which i was intending to convert to magic wand but finding the parts is hard so looking at other options as I have a couple of A+ 'boxes lying about...
cheers
- Dean
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Re: Rod change selector shortening
Late 70's Australian Mokes used the same floor pressing as English Mokes with the oval gearstick hole but used rod change gear boxes with shortened rods between the gearbox and selector so it is possible to do this.
Dean
Dean
- Dean
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Re: Rod change selector shortening
Here's Chappiness's Aussie Moke which was originally fitted with a rod change box and selector. He has used slightly longer rods on his later engine fitment though (probably from a late model Aussie/Portuguese Moke) so had to elongate the hole. You can see the original mounts for the selector housing in the photo.
Dean
Dean
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Re: Rod change selector shortening
I've just done the same swap to my Moke, there are 2 key things to bear in mind
1st; once you've shortened the change rod you'll need to drill a new hole through it; this has to be straight down the center line of the rod or you'll be stuck - you'll need a pillar drill at the very least - don't try using your trusty black and decker; if this is not possible you might be able to cut the rod then sleeve and weld the two bits back together - again make sure you keep the hole in the right plane
2nd; think about the gear lever, i used a gear lever from a rod change equipped van or pick up as it is a very similar length to the original magic wand there was no way i could reach a standard lever from a normal mini, it might be possible to cut and weld the mini gear lever to a magic wand
To straighten the top rod I used a large lump hammer then cut and sleeved it to length
If you want any further details I'll be happy to help
1st; once you've shortened the change rod you'll need to drill a new hole through it; this has to be straight down the center line of the rod or you'll be stuck - you'll need a pillar drill at the very least - don't try using your trusty black and decker; if this is not possible you might be able to cut the rod then sleeve and weld the two bits back together - again make sure you keep the hole in the right plane
2nd; think about the gear lever, i used a gear lever from a rod change equipped van or pick up as it is a very similar length to the original magic wand there was no way i could reach a standard lever from a normal mini, it might be possible to cut and weld the mini gear lever to a magic wand
To straighten the top rod I used a large lump hammer then cut and sleeved it to length
If you want any further details I'll be happy to help
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- Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2013 0:00
Re: Rod change selector shortening
thanks for the info and pictures that's a great help.
off to fire up the grinder....
off to fire up the grinder....
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Re: Rod change selector shortening
@grahamc
Thanks for the detail in your post, I didn't see it before for some reason.
I've a spare magic wand lever I could use and try to weld it on to extend.
Do you think this mod would work on a Mk1 Mini too?
Trying to decide which 'box to put in which car, Moke or Mk1, 22G1128 4 synch remote conversion and A+ MG Metro 'box.
Thanks for the detail in your post, I didn't see it before for some reason.
I've a spare magic wand lever I could use and try to weld it on to extend.
Do you think this mod would work on a Mk1 Mini too?
Trying to decide which 'box to put in which car, Moke or Mk1, 22G1128 4 synch remote conversion and A+ MG Metro 'box.
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Re: Rod change selector shortening
Hi,
The way i looked at it was this - i have a magic wand box but it needs an overhaul and is fitted with a 3.76 diff - i don't have a moke magic wand gear lever - i also have a gold seal remote box with a 3.44 diff, that just needs a good clean.
The 3.44 diff and a 4 synchro box would be much better for driving and my wallet- and it is much easier to cut and shorten two rods than it was going to be to bend a mini magic wand lever to suit a moke without some oxy acetylene gear.
The A+ box would be the one to go for - they're stronger with a better set of gears.
You could weld the magic wand lever to the stump of the rod change lever, but personally I wouldn't try welding gear levers they are tricky and if it snaps.
I would look for an early mini rod change lever which is longer and bend it without using heat and maybe use a set of extension pieces to make it easier to reach. As per the pictures in the other post you could even position the lever closer to the seats.
If you're going to weld two levers together make sure you allow for the spring etc to hold the lever onto the housing.
If I could work out how to attach pictures I'd show you how I've gone about fitting the box to mine.
Cheers GrahamC
The way i looked at it was this - i have a magic wand box but it needs an overhaul and is fitted with a 3.76 diff - i don't have a moke magic wand gear lever - i also have a gold seal remote box with a 3.44 diff, that just needs a good clean.
The 3.44 diff and a 4 synchro box would be much better for driving and my wallet- and it is much easier to cut and shorten two rods than it was going to be to bend a mini magic wand lever to suit a moke without some oxy acetylene gear.
The A+ box would be the one to go for - they're stronger with a better set of gears.
You could weld the magic wand lever to the stump of the rod change lever, but personally I wouldn't try welding gear levers they are tricky and if it snaps.
I would look for an early mini rod change lever which is longer and bend it without using heat and maybe use a set of extension pieces to make it easier to reach. As per the pictures in the other post you could even position the lever closer to the seats.
If you're going to weld two levers together make sure you allow for the spring etc to hold the lever onto the housing.
If I could work out how to attach pictures I'd show you how I've gone about fitting the box to mine.
Cheers GrahamC
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Re: Rod change selector shortening
Thanks. The magic wand lever I have came off the Moke, I didn't realise they were different, will have to compare them side by side.
I'll PM you and then maybe you could email me some pictures as you're right, i can't figure out posting pics here either.
I'll PM you and then maybe you could email me some pictures as you're right, i can't figure out posting pics here either.
- spider
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Re: Rod change selector shortening
Some of the various Australian shifter types
Top one is from the November 1979 - 1981 Model
Middle is from the 74 to 79 Model
Bottom on is from the 74-78 Model Mini with the Australian rear mount
Top one is from the November 1979 - 1981 Model
Middle is from the 74 to 79 Model
Bottom on is from the 74-78 Model Mini with the Australian rear mount
Old Mokers never die, they just smell that way.
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Re: Rod change selector shortening
Cheers Spider,
the middle one looks as though it would fit a Mk1 English as is?
the middle one looks as though it would fit a Mk1 English as is?