Half shaft or other ? ? ? ? ? ?

[spider]

Don't stop with the advice, pics and info.

I will save all this for saturday morning.

Plan to have a camera to take plenty pics. Some for publication here and some so I can re assemble what I have undone.

Doug, in addition to what wally has suggested, getting the correct LH or RH Drive Shaft, be aware too that there are different shafts depending on if you have Inboard CVs or Universal Joints, so to clarify there are 4 (actually 6) different drive shafts. The other 2 types of Drive Shaft were used on the Cooper S, Automatics and Mokes that had the Hardy Spicer type Universal Joints. The 'normal' Universal being a rubber type.

[Doug G]

Don't stop with the advice, pics and info.

I will save all this for saturday morning.

Plan to have a camera to take plenty pics. Some for publication here and some so I can re assemble what I have undone.

Doug, in addition to what wally has suggested, getting the correct LH or RH Drive Shaft, be aware too that there are different shafts depending on if you have Inboard CVs or Universal Joints, so to clarify there are 4 (actually 6) different drive shafts. The other 2 types of Drive Shaft were used on the Cooper S, Automatics and Mokes that had the Hardy Spicer type Universal Joints. The 'normal' Universal being a rubber type.

I plan on disassembling the section and seeing what is wring.
There is a chap in Nevis (next island 2 miles away) who has (might have) the part(s) I need. I can take the defective bit over and compare it.

Well that is the plan.

[spider]

Sounds like a good idea there Doug, but be sure when you show your friend the drive shaft that you DON'T want one the same. I would think you'd want one that not broken

[Doug G]

Sounds like a good idea there Doug, but be sure when you show your friend the drive shaft that you DON'T want one the same. I would think you'd want one that not broken

Point taken.

[Doug G]

Good news.

The half shaft is NOT snapped.

It slipped out of the CV joint.

It was a bugger to redo, never having done it before.

I took the hub out - needed a BIG spanner for that - and slid it on to the splines on the shaft. Then it would not slide out. So then had to take the cV joint holder out.

Had to get a 'splitter' from a friend, took three visits., to separate the top and bottom connections.

It was simple and easy (yeah right) once I had the right tools.

It only took 5.5 hours from start to finish.

Good to go now. Drove around the drive.

Still don't understand why there is enough space for the half shaft to slip out!!!!

[Nigel(no top)Sykes]

In the service manuals it says to always use a new spring ring on the end of the drive shaft. Most times folk don't bother and re-use the existing one, 99 times out of100 it works just fine......but then there's that one time
It usually lets you down when the wheel is at or near full lock (i.e. When pulling out of a junction). It happened to me about 250 miles from home !!

[Nigel(no top)Sykes]

P.S. I always fit a new one now

[Tim]

Good job Doug! Thats a fairly substantial bit of work when you've never done it before.

Tim

[Dean]

Good job Doug! Thats a fairly substantial bit of work when you've never done it before.

Tim

+1
You are now experiencing Moke ownership to the full.
Dean

[spider]

Glad it was a fairly easy fix.

If it does it again, as the other guys have said, fit a new C clip, if it doesn't, don't loose any sleep over it.

I did have one pop out on me once, on a Mini I'd just bought. The last person who did the wheel alignment gave it more lock one way than the other. This allowed the CV to just pick up on the drive shaft on full lock, and start to pull it out. If was fairly evident when I looked at the drive shaft from the marks that were on it.

[Doug G]

Can anyone tell me why there is enough space for the half shaft to slip out!!!!




PS Post # 3800 and Nigel is catching up really quickly

[Nigel(no top)Sykes]

There has to be some movement allowed for in the length of the shaft to allow for the hub moving up and down when you go over bumps or have several large people jump in and out of the Moke

[PJ]

.

[Doug G]

As I said previously, negative camber bottom arms pull the hubs out slightly further and I knew that disengagement was then possible - has Doug got longer bottom arms or has he proved that the shaft(s) can come out even with standard geometry? If so it's cr*p design: If done properly there should be enough movement to accomodate the most extreme combination of wheel travel, steering lock, engine mounting deflection etc without the spline either bottoming out or disengaging.
To be fair, you must remember that back in those days it was either trial and error or days on the drawing board to determine every combination of the arcs of movement of wheels - no computer programs to instantly generate the complete 'envelope' of movement for wheels, driveshafts, suspension arms etc.

Doug: glad to hear it was a cheap fix - hope you didn't lose too much sleep on account of the doom-mongers telling you that it would be an engine out/strip job or new driveshaft & CV! Was the circlip broken or had it not quite clicked home when last dismantled? (did you ever fit that disc brake conversion - or have it fitted by someone else? that could have been the start of your problems)

The cir clip was intact. However when I inserted the half shaft into the hub (I was testing the splines) I pushed it well in, then it was unable to be retracted. So I decided not to damage something and undid the bolts for the hub housing.

[Nigel(no top)Sykes]

Doug, if you have a look at Wally's post earlier in the thread (the one with the page from the service manual in it) you'll see how you're supposed to get the shaft out of the CV. When you consider it, that's why you couldn't pull it out