Pot Joints

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liirge
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Pot Joints

Post by liirge »

I can't get my engine back for love nor money, the pot joints won't go back on the output shafts.

Any tips
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spider
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Re: Twin Carbs

Post by spider »

It appears that there were 2 suppliers to BL for these and countless others since. I know the two different ones supplied to the factory had different sized cages for the balls, so one was machined out bigger on the ID to take this. The smaller one will fit the bigger one (get's noisy though) but not the other way around, so I'd look at that first.
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liirge
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Re: Twin Carbs

Post by liirge »

I didn't split the pot joints from the shafts, I took the pots off complete from the differential.
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Doug G
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Re: Twin Carbs

Post by Doug G »

Turn the shaft slightly then try again
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spider
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Re: Twin Carbs

Post by spider »

liirge wrote:I didn't split the pot joints from the shafts, I took the pots off complete from the differential.
Try as Doug has suggested, first. I have always found it considerably easier to have the joint on the diff, then fit the shaft to it.
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Nigel(no top)Sykes
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Re: Twin Carbs

Post by Nigel(no top)Sykes »

It's awkward getting them on the first little bit, laid under the car you have to fiddle the inner end about until it locates at least a small amount then shove them home. All the while the shaft is flopping about
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liirge
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Re: Twin Carbs

Post by liirge »

I seem to be able to get them to line up and they go on ok, until the circlip, they just refuse to budge past that 'ruddy clip!
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spider
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Re: Twin Carbs

Post by spider »

Have the wire C clips ever been replaced? If not re-fitted the right way, they usually spread and make life very difficult indeed.

Might need two people to do it this way. If you can ask an assist - preferably good looking - to hold the joint in place on the diff output shaft while you hold the hub, pulling it out a little so that the Pot Joint internals slide out, then slam it in quickly towards the engine, might take a couple of goes. Your assistant should also be ready to get the hand out of the way in a hurry, just in case,,,,,

But, I'd seriously recommend removing the Inboard from the shaft, fitting that to the engine and then fitting the drive shaft in to in, easier, safer.
Old Mokers never die, they just smell that way.
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liirge
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Re: Pot Joints

Post by liirge »

not replaced in my lifetime, but it was a low mileage unit before I bored it etc.
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liirge
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Re: Pot Joints

Post by liirge »

All sorted, used some leverage from the subframe. Engine is all in now had her turning over sounds all good and got 50psi on the oil gauge with the plugs out. Quite a way from the fire up but exciting stuff none the less.
Nigel(no top)Sykes
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Re: Pot Joints

Post by Nigel(no top)Sykes »

Just remember the old saying, "If it don't fit - force it"
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spider
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Re: Pot Joints

Post by spider »

Nigel(no top)Sykes wrote:Just remember the old saying, "If it don't fit - force it"
"And if it breaks, it needed replacing anyway"

Wasn't that Murphy?
Last edited by spider on Tue May 20, 2014 19:51, edited 1 time in total.
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liirge
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Re: Pot Joints

Post by liirge »

I have one further question, I've turned her over a bit more to just check a few things. (Turned over on starter with plugs in and out, no carbs or manifolds attached and no dizzy cap or leads on)

I've got a screech, that's the only way to describe it. I'm thinking along the lines of the fan belt (bit slow though for such a racket) or bearings in either the water pump or dynamo, both have been standing for a while and there is no coolant in the engine. The screech I think is in that region. Fan isn't hitting the cowling (a pet hate of mine).

I would be grateful for any thoughts, I'm very paranoid about the engine. Oil pressure on cranking was a relief!
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spider
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Re: Pot Joints

Post by spider »

The water pump can screech if dry (it's best not to run them dry, but does happen) as the seal does (to some degree) rely on the coolant for lubrication.

I'd suggest slackening the fan belt and then turn over the fan (and water pump) and the dynamo by hand to see how they feel.

Another possible source for that noise can come from the clutch thrust bearing, if dry and not correctly adjusted, though the starter doesn't usually spin them over fast enough to hear anything from there, but has happened.
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liirge
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Re: Pot Joints

Post by liirge »

Cheers,
Clutch release bearing is out, it's all adjusted and very very well lubricated.
It's a noise I'm not massively worried about, I think I'll run it with some coolant, and I'll run it up the road and back get an MOT. If it still does it I'll start worrying.
I was just asking as I hoped it wasn't a tell tell sign of an internal issue.
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