Heaters

[Nigel(no top)Sykes]

What's wrong with the original type LH bracket? It looks pretty neat to me

[Tim]

I didn't have one. I changed from a 998 to 1275 which needs a different top bracket because they rotated the thermostat housing. I originally cut up a 998 one and rewelded it to fit, but that got busted when I crashed the old Moke, so when the old engine was fitted to the new Moke I just bought a minispares MSK1300 off the shelf. As it happens, I have really bad clutch judder that I'm too busy/lazy to try to sort out, so my engine rocks around pretty badly and I need a good solid mount.

Tim

[Doug G]

I didn't have one. I changed from a 998 to 1275 which needs a different top bracket because they rotated the thermostat housing. I originally cut up a 998 one and rewelded it to fit, but that got busted when I crashed the old Moke, so when the old engine was fitted to the new Moke I just bought a minispares MSK1300 off the shelf. As it happens, I have really bad clutch judder that I'm too busy/lazy to try to sort out, so my engine rocks around pretty badly and I need a good solid mount.

Tim

That sounds like an interesting tale, care to share?

[Doug G]

I didn't have one. I changed from a 998 to 1275 which needs a different top bracket because they rotated the thermostat housing. I originally cut up a 998 one and rewelded it to fit, but that got busted when I crashed the old Moke, so when the old engine was fitted to the new Moke I just bought a minispares MSK1300 off the shelf. As it happens, I have really bad clutch judder that I'm too busy/lazy to try to sort out, so my engine rocks around pretty badly and I need a good solid mount.

Tim

Wouldn't it be better to sort out the clutch shudder then installing a good solid mount and have all that force and torque acting in the clutch area?

BTW this may be helpful:

Causes of Clutch Chatter or Shudder
• Improper break-in procedure
• Flywheel not properly resurfaced before installing a new clutch
• Flywheel or clutch disc friction surface not parallel with the crank flange surface
• Flywheel has severe hard spots or hot spots
• Flywheel has an improper step or cup dimension
• Defective pressure plate and/or disc
• Disc has inadequate or no marcel (not enough cushion between friction facings)
• Oil or grease contamination on clutch facings
• Worn or damaged clutch linkage
• Bent cover assembly and/or clutch disc
• Damaged/excessively worn U-joints or CV joints
• Misaligned U-joints
• Excessive backlash in differential
• Excessive driveline angle
• Improper gear ratio versus tire diameter
• Improperly tuned engine
• Worn/damaged engine or transmission mounts
• Bad leaf springs, bushings or mounts

http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/10/0 ... e-experts/

[Nigel(no top)Sykes]

Clutch judder has always been a thing with these engines. That's why on A+ engines the slave cylinder has an unused fixing point on the mounting plate. It was brought in with the Metro for the damping device they were trying

[spider]

Tim, it will only shudder when slipping it (as you would already know) so don't slip it! On or Off

BTW this may be helpful:

Causes of Clutch Chatter or Shudder
• Improper break-in procedure
• Flywheel not properly resurfaced before installing a new clutch
• Flywheel or clutch disc friction surface not parallel with the crank flange surface
• Flywheel has severe hard spots or hot spots
• Flywheel has an improper step or cup dimension
• Defective pressure plate and/or disc
• Disc has inadequate or no marcel (not enough cushion between friction facings)
• Oil or grease contamination on clutch facings
• Worn or damaged clutch linkage
• Bent cover assembly and/or clutch disc
• Damaged/excessively worn U-joints or CV joints
• Misaligned U-joints
• Excessive backlash in differential
• Excessive driveline angle
• Improper gear ratio versus tire diameter
• Improperly tuned engine
• Worn/damaged engine or transmission mounts
• Bad leaf springs, bushings or mounts

http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/10/0 ... e-experts/

Stretched / misaligned flywheel drive straps
Worn stepped bolts for above
Bent Crankshaft Tail
Broken Crankshaft
Worn Primary Gear Bushes
Oil on the clutch
Cracking around the Rivets of the Clutch Plate
Poor quality Clutch Plate
Worn Hub or poor fitting Hub in the Clutch Plate
Broken / cracked Diaphragm Spring
Cracked Flywheel and / or Backing Plate
Backing Plate pillars uneven in height
Thrust Bearing seized (and a driver who's deaf)

[Tim]

I'm sure I've mentioned my accident before. Just before Christmas 1999, I went out to 'procure' a christmas tree for my parents. On the way home I encountered a teenager driving a Toyota Corona. On the way back from a christmas shopping trip with a friend she had stopped at her drug dealing cousin's house for some supplies. He generously gave them some free rohypnol (in their hot chocolate) and sent them off to meet me. She met me head-on on a narrow stretch of country road fringed with scrub, trees and power poles. I saw her coming on my side of the road, and even though I got right off the road, with two wheels in the scrub she hit me. I had been doing about 70 and she was doing about 50 Kmh. The Moke was shortened by about half a meter on the driver's side. My upper body was mostly OK, my right arm copped a few cuts - I think from the perspex side screen or maybe her car, sliding down the side. The most serious injury was my right femur which was broken into about 5 major pieces.

The Moke wasn't a viable repair option. I cut the front off and scrapped it, salvaged the engine, but not much else from the front, and kept the back half as a trailer. I pretty much made a full recovery, but it took a few years before I was confident enough to get another Moke. I drove a Mini van for a couple of years which was really handy because I could fit the crutches in the back.

As for the clutch judder, yes I should sort it out, but the Moke would have to come off the road for some time for expensive and possibly futile work. As Spider says it only judders when the clutch is slipping, once the car is moving its fine. I've developed a very sensitive clutch foot so I can control the judder to some extent. No one else can though. The worst problem is that it keeps breaking the exhaust, I'll fit a flexible coupling next time, and it is very hard on the firewall crossmember.

Tim

Tim

[Tim]

I'm now convinced that the thermostat that's in there is faulty, or at least too cool. I went out for a Moke meeting last night, and it was very cold, maybe only 1°C. The heater was working OK until I got onto the highway, but at 110km/h it was barely putting anything out, and the engine was misfiring badly, like it hadn't warmed up. My (possibly dodgy) temperature gauge was showing less than 80°C, the whole time.

I'll undo all the ironmongery bolted to the thermostat cover and swap the thermostat for a hotter one, to see if that improves things. I pulled off the heater tap and cleaned it up, its working fine and I determined that the knob does need to be pushed in.

I also determined that I am getting soft in my old age. I had the full roof on, including the sides...Oh the shame.

Tim

[spider]

I'm now convinced that the thermostat that's in there is faulty, or at least too cool. I went out for a Moke meeting last night, and it was very cold, maybe only 1°C. The heater was working OK until I got onto the highway, but at 110km/h it was barely putting anything out, and the engine was misfiring badly, like it hadn't warmed up. My (possibly dodgy) temperature gauge was showing less than 80°C, the whole time.

Tim

Tim, are you still running with a by-pass hose between the pump and the head? Block that silly thing off first!