Water/cooling leak may be
- Doug G
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Water/cooling leak may be
The water/cooling leak may be be on its way to being solved.
The bottom hose from the radiator to the water pump shows signs of leaking.
The hose looks a light brown/khaki at present.
A new hose has been ordered and will (well thats the plan) be here on the 13th.
However the question arises. How is it fitted?
Do I have to remove the engine?
Hopefully I can disconnect all the radiator bolted connections and move the radiator away from the engine to get access.
Anyone done it and got the correct procedure?
The bottom hose from the radiator to the water pump shows signs of leaking.
The hose looks a light brown/khaki at present.
A new hose has been ordered and will (well thats the plan) be here on the 13th.
However the question arises. How is it fitted?
Do I have to remove the engine?
Hopefully I can disconnect all the radiator bolted connections and move the radiator away from the engine to get access.
Anyone done it and got the correct procedure?
Having a moking good time!
-
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- Location: Everywhere and nowhere baby
- spider
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- Location: 'Big Red', Australia
Re: Water/cooling leak may be
Bhaha,,, nope, you won't have to remove the engine, just remove the radiator
It may well be that hose, but you sure it's not the by-pass hose that goes between the head and the water pump or the water pump itself?
It may well be that hose, but you sure it's not the by-pass hose that goes between the head and the water pump or the water pump itself?
Old Mokers never die, they just smell that way.
- Robin Jones
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Re: Water/cooling leak may be
If the last guy that changed the hose oriented* the worm clamps correctly, you should be able to get to 'em,
remove, and replace the offending hose....
And, as Spider said, I would be suspicious of the water pump and/or bypass hose.
*Judging by past work done, the chances of the clamps being pointed in the right direction are pretty close to the odds of me winning the lotto....
remove, and replace the offending hose....
And, as Spider said, I would be suspicious of the water pump and/or bypass hose.
*Judging by past work done, the chances of the clamps being pointed in the right direction are pretty close to the odds of me winning the lotto....
This is Matt Jones Son of Robin.
- Wally2
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- Location: Belper, Derbyshire
Re: Water/cooling leak may be
Hi Doug,
I think we established a while ago that your engine did not have the bypass hose, and that you had a new water pump. that's not to say that the leak is not from the pump!
I assume that you have the bottom hose without the heater feed take off, this makes it a little 'easier'.
As has already been said, removal of the rad may be necessary if you cannot loosen the bottom clamp onto the rad, even if you can its a knuckle crunching job where you cannot see what you are doing! I think you can only get at the bottom joint from the top as there is too much in the way from underneath.
Once (if) you manage to get the old hose off, getting the new one onto the rad is - er - a challenge. If you do remove the rad to fit the hose onto it, make sure that you can get at the clamp screw once the rad is back in place, otherwise you wont be able to give it that last 'tweak' to seal the deal.
Best of luck to you, let us know how you get on, (photos of the skinned knuckles please!).
Chris
I think we established a while ago that your engine did not have the bypass hose, and that you had a new water pump. that's not to say that the leak is not from the pump!
I assume that you have the bottom hose without the heater feed take off, this makes it a little 'easier'.
As has already been said, removal of the rad may be necessary if you cannot loosen the bottom clamp onto the rad, even if you can its a knuckle crunching job where you cannot see what you are doing! I think you can only get at the bottom joint from the top as there is too much in the way from underneath.
Once (if) you manage to get the old hose off, getting the new one onto the rad is - er - a challenge. If you do remove the rad to fit the hose onto it, make sure that you can get at the clamp screw once the rad is back in place, otherwise you wont be able to give it that last 'tweak' to seal the deal.
Best of luck to you, let us know how you get on, (photos of the skinned knuckles please!).
Chris
Chris
WEEMOKE
JUX180D
WEEMOKE
JUX180D
- Doug G
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Re: Water/cooling leak may be
[quote="Wally2" ] . . .
Best of luck to you, let us know how you get on, (photos of the skinned knuckles please!).
Chris[/quote]
I get the feeling that some of you chaps know more than I do regarding this job.
Best of luck to you, let us know how you get on, (photos of the skinned knuckles please!).
Chris[/quote]
I get the feeling that some of you chaps know more than I do regarding this job.
Having a moking good time!
-
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Re: Water/cooling leak may be
No, not really. At least you've got a removable grille to make it easier to get the rad out
Come on summer
- Doug G
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Re: Water/cooling leak may be
Unfortunately the grille on my Mini Moke is fixed.Nigel(no top)Sykes wrote:No, not really. At least you've got a removable grille to make it easier to get the rad out
Last years pic, not the Christmas decoration on the bonnet.
Having a moking good time!
- spider
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Re: Water/cooling leak may be
Doesn't matter.Doug G wrote:Unfortunately the grille on my Mini Moke is fixed.Nigel(no top)Sykes wrote:No, not really. At least you've got a removable grille to make it easier to get the rad out
Awesome !Doug G wrote: Last years pic, not the Christmas decoration on the bonnet.
Old Mokers never die, they just smell that way.
- Doug G
- MMC Member
- Posts: 5096
- Joined: Sun Sep 17, 2006 14:44
- Location: Caribbean
- Doug G
- MMC Member
- Posts: 5096
- Joined: Sun Sep 17, 2006 14:44
- Location: Caribbean
Re: Water/cooling leak may be
My coolant leak is fixed.
The last causeway the three bolts that hold down the thermostat housing.
The last causeway the three bolts that hold down the thermostat housing.
Having a moking good time!