Entire brake system replacement

[mokeinmalta]

As part of the rebuild I'm going to replace the entire brake system. The decision to do this is made easier by the fact that the parts I got with the car included only 2 drums and 5 master cylinders, all equally rusty.

I've looked through the threads on here & trying to decipher my manual but i'm still left with 2 questions really:

1) as I need to replace the whole thing is there an easy disc brake conversion for the front? as in use parts off a later mini version, possibly shafts & all? Is this even worth doing?

2) which brake system to use. There seem to be 2 types of master cylinder

an upright cylinder like this (and there are with metal or plastic tanks): http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... nders.aspx

and then there are these, I'm guessing later model. http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... nders.aspx

While i'm keen on originality, I like my classics to be suited to modern driving so i'm happy to upgrade brakes in the name of safety.

3) Is there a servo / can one be fitted?

Anything else worth considering?

Thanks
Steve

[Wally2]

Hi Steve,
As you may have seen I've just had my brakes sorted, you dont say what year your Moke is but there is an excellent review of brakes on the Somerford minis site i.e.
http://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/eshop/in ... page&id=60
http://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/eshop/in ... page&id=59
As for conversion kits Mini Spares have a good range
http://www.minispares.com/shop/classic/ ... .aspx?0408
Chris

[clm]

Aside from brake lines the brakes are pretty much identical to the normal mini line more or less. Standard mini disk brakes go right on, 7.5 or 8.4. I wouldn't imagine a booster would be as important in a moke as a heavier mini but you should be able to use the later RHD brake setup if you want that style booster, I am not sure if the LHD setup would end up as a decent installation.... however... simpler tends to be better.

I myself have plans to convert my mini to later split braking but will not be putting a booster in, as I personally don't feel it's necessary, that and the moke engine bay gets cramped as it is with original brakes... -grumbles something about adjusting the belt tension with standard non removeable grill-

Chris

[Nigel(no top)Sykes]

I think it also depends on how much you are willing to spend, eg

Metal master cyl = original looks +expensive. Plastic one = cheaper and works just as well
Disc brakes. 7.5"= expensive . 8.4". Cheaper(lots) but you can only use 12" & 13" wheels

Servos, or boosters (to use the colonial term) can be expensive and not really needed on a Moke.
Personally I prefer the good old single line brake system... Remember. KISS. Keep It Simple Stupid

[Wally2]

Also with master cylinders there are 0.7" bore and 0.75" bore! which one you need will depend on the wheel cylinder sizes! Again check out the info on the Somerford site.
Chris

[mokeinmalta]

Thanks for all the info guys, much appreciated.

Time to do some homework now, will report back what I end up doing.

Ta
S