1986 AMC Cub Moke-a-like

[Drake]

Cheers for the input guys - i think you have just swayed me not to fit it.
It already has a new radiator fitted by the previous owner - I do think there is issues with the cooling though as it's been spitting rusty water over the n/s front suspension. I suspect it just wants a damn good flushing through, new water pump etc.

I think I will make some brackets for the heater just cause it's better to fabricate somat now. But i'll leave it off and see how it goes.

WIll get some more done over the weekend and post the updates later..

In other news, it looks like i've found someone to make my new hood. I didnt want to risk a standard Moke one due to costs and build of the cub. So the idea is use the Moke roof bars with new hood in the style of the Moke. I still want this on the road for next summer so need to get my finger out. Hopefully engine back in very soon. just a small bit of welding to finsih off.

[Drake]

Next job was to tackle the side panels. Another item I had to change on the AMC was the flat sides. I explored all options to include contacting Charles at AMC for his new sides (the new built Cubs have pressed inserts / not flat panels) No joy, then bought a access panel off ebay for £10 with a view to have some GRP versions made. Basically I should have thrown my £10 away as the panel was very badly described and it was just a piece of junk. It's now screwed to my garage wall as a piece of wall art !!

No option but to bite the bullet and this was the extra parts ordered from Mokepanels. I ordered 1 battery cover and 5 access panels 2 for the o/s and 3 for the N/S. Not exactly as a Moke but it will do and as stated I'm not trying to build a fake Moke -I am just trying to expand on Charles Andersons original idea. Plus by having access panels down the n/s I have extra storage (ok not much but storage non the less)

First plan was to study all the pics I had and decided where to place them / cut lines etc.







you can see one of the reinforcers interferes here - it doesnt effect the fitment in anyway.



And the side panels fitted. I decided to use rivnuts and stainless allen bolts mainly because i cant really use the access panels due to the reinforcers and the AMC has access from inside which personally I prefer for ease. Plus it adds a little security (not much granted)



Next will be grille panel / finishing bulkhead and then getting the engine ready for refitting.

[Drake]

and onto the grille

This is how the AMC one looks (for this year - they changed it for a cross hatch design on the later ones)



The bonnet is a one piece steel affair and it's the one piece I'd like to retain from the Cub - two reasons, one the cost of trying to change to a conventional Moke set up and two I like the access it gives to the engine bay. However I dont like the Kit Car style grille so that has to go. Ordered a new Aussie style grille from Moke Panels and tried in place. Now the Cubs curves are not the same and the curve on the bonnet is not as smooth a radius as the Moke. The lights are also a little too low for the grille. So i've had to compromise the fitment.



Having reached a compromise on position, it was time to cut the grille out.



Same thing again, left tags, rivnuts and stainless fixings. I was originally going to weld it in but it seemed like too much hassle. So this appeared to be the best compromise.



At the same time I replaced the original Cub 'trailer lights' for some replacment Moke style



Quite pleased with that so went onto the engine bay. Same principle, just wanted to tidy it up so it looked less DIY kit car and put a little more of a finish on it.
The original design has an open feel to it, the pedal box would be impossible to fit with the studs in place without it being open. However the pedals were seized and I suspec one reason was water dripping in through the open section so this had to be changed. However do I enclose it but still make the pedal box fittable !! (I appreciate thats not a word!!) So my plan was to remove the studs (I'll fix captive nuts on it and use 8mm studs)
The o/s to give you an idea


And the O/s (i'd already closed one section up when picture taken)


Paper template made.







ANd that brings up to date, next plan is to paint the lower bulkhead section so that the engine can be refitted. As I need it mobile to start work on the o/s and the rear panel.
You probably can see where i'm going with this now, other jobs to complete include closing the screen frame in and I can decide on the rear panel yet. Need to turn the car round in the garage to decide that one. I've also ordered some round tube for the bumpers so need to work out how I plan to fit those.
In other news Ron fron Runamoke has confirmed my seats are ready as well as the hood frame / handles etc. And I've also agreed the fabric for the hood. The company has a 14 week lead time so I need to plan this well... will need to get my finger out !!

[Drake]

Ok - another update, once again life and other projects get in the way however i'm determined to get this on the road for April/May time !!!
anyways I left it last time with the engine bay.
Well i'd actually done a fair bit but in my haste didnt take too many photographs so please bare with me.


You will notice that some extra panels were fitted to the screen support, I had cut down the ally frame and made an order to Moke Panels (great service again and super quick) I took a chance as I wasnt sure if these would fit but with some minor adjustments fitment was easy.



I'd also fitted some peep mirrors to the frame (left over parts from my Anglia van project)



I must admit I'm chuffed with the mirrors and look pretty spot on for the look i'm after (which is a mix of classic and aussie style Moke)

While this was going on my Autosparks loom arrived - despite a request on the forum and various other sites no one has been able to advise how this routes in a standard Moke so I am planning to guess as I go along. It looks like it comes through from behind the clocks, one piece down the o/s and the other down the N/S. I'll know more when I lay it out in the car. Again this is another part i'm chuffed with as the original wiring was diabolical.



At the same time my seats arrived (again a guess as wasnt sure if these would fit, the Cub is even narrorer than the Moke due to the vertical sides.



But all was good and trial fit ok although I needed to modify the mounting frame



Frame will be powder coated when I'm ready for the refit, all bolts now have captive nuts to save messing about and make adjustment easier.

Bulkhead all cleaned up



then onto the n/s screen frame







for some reason I dont have a shot of the n/s finished but you get the idea.

Next problem was the bonnet, the previous owner told me that the bonnet was a problem and that he rubber straps always snapped, I suspect the wind going through the grille was lifting it placing stress on the straps. the bonnet area is one that I want to keep(for now) I may fit a proper Moke front on when funds allow.
However i needed a soloution to the bonnet and decided to use Dzus fastners.







6 were fitted in total - 2 either side and 2 at the bottom either side of where the number plate will sit. Really please with the fitment and it feels really solid. I've allowed room for a seal as well for when I do the final fit up.

Next job was a prep /clean / application of POR15 and then sealer. You will also notice I've fitted bonnet support brackets to the bulkhead - thats for if I decide to change the front end.













Finally I prepped andpainted the bulkhead ready for the engine to go back in but first I needed to make the brake pipes, I also wanted them to be properly secured this time (not just 2 tie wraps on the chassis and then flapping in the wind - yep thats what it was like!!!)

Rear ones





Frame painted and front to rear pipe fitted



and fastened to bulkhead



And thats it - i've the roof hoops to finish and then start on the rear lights. But engine in first so that it can roll again..

[Wally2]

Hi Drake,
I didn't reply on the wiring loom before as I've no idea about a Portuguese Moke, but my English is like this:-

The loom splits into two behind the carb, with most going through a large grommet behind the dash and the rest going down the passenger side to the rear lights and the fuel pump. At the front it goes under the front panel top lip to the two sets of lights and the engine electrics (dynamo, oil pressure, oil filter, dissy etc.)
Hope this helps.
Looking good by the way, hope we will see you at one or more of this years events?
Cheers
Chris

[Drake]

Thanks for the picture Chris, It's interesting that despite all the build threads on english and other Mokes - I couldnt find any pictures of the loom going to the rear. I suspect that all the Mokes were routed the same way just amended for the spec required through the years.
I laid the loom out on the car and it sort of makes sense - I will need to modify a few connectors as i'm using earlier lights and switch gear.

By way of an update - I have a pretty tight deadline and I have the Cub booked in for a new hood to be made tomorrow (measure first with a booking in date of April) . So I needed to get the Cub as a roller so that I could trailer it over.

Only issue I had was I was unable to find the track rod end nuts - anyone know what size I need? Anyways back to the update and mocked it up best I could - The hood frames are also on although not shown in the pictures. When brough back from the hood place, I will route all the wiring and look to get it as a runner. Then MOT/Paint and fit hood !!! that gives me 2 months of solid graft!!

Date on the rack was 2011 so that was being refitted, used proper U bolts rather than the exhaust clamps fitted before !!!



Engine back in - painted back of the engine for ease, new manifold studs and gasket fitted at same time. Will finsih engine detail later.



Couldnt get the speedo cable to fit. It has a Metro 1275 engine from 1989 and s standard speedo head from a Mini Traveller. Cable fits the speedo but not the gearbox drive - any ideas or help greatly appreciated?







And trial fitted seats and covers - I have to say I was a little sceptical at first regards the GRP seats, however now they are bolted in i'm pretty pleased with them.



More later - ta

[spider]

Nice work on your Project, been watching it for a while, I like the way your going about things.

Couldnt get the speedo cable to fit. It has a Metro 1275 engine from 1989 and s standard speedo head from a Mini Traveller. Cable fits the speedo but not the gearbox drive - any ideas or help greatly appreciated?

The Speedo Take Offs on the Gearboxes were all the same, from 1959 through to 2000, including the Metro range (3/4' dia x 25 TPI) , however, is it the threaded bit you're having trouble with or the inner cable actually going in to the drive?

[Nigel(no top)Sykes]

And it's always always ALWAYS easier to fit the cable to the engine before you fit the engine in the bay......but I might be a bit late telling you that looking at the pics

[Drake]

Nice work on your Project, been watching it for a while, I like the way your going about things.

Couldnt get the speedo cable to fit. It has a Metro 1275 engine from 1989 and s standard speedo head from a Mini Traveller. Cable fits the speedo but not the gearbox drive - any ideas or help greatly appreciated?

The Speedo Take Offs on the Gearboxes were all the same, from 1959 through to 2000, including the Metro range (3/4' dia x 25 TPI) , however, is it the threaded bit you're having trouble with or the inner cable actually going in to the drive?

Thanks for the comments - I can fit the collar on no problem, the square cable does not want to fit in. Looking at it, it looks like something else is in the adapter (has a smaller square than the cable) I'm unsure what a genuine one would look like to compare. I tried to remove the drive from the gearbox but again no joy. I'll have another look and see if I can understand why it wont fit. I'll try and image and add to this.

And it's always always ALWAYS easier to fit the cable to the engine before you fit the engine in the bay......but I might be a bit late telling you that looking at the pics

Nigel, you're not wrong and as you probably gathered I tried to fit before the engine went in. The previous owner said it wasnt fitted cause he couldnt reach it. However I'm unsure of what it's like on a genuine Mini but on the Cub there is plenty of access so in reality I think he had the same issue i'm experiancing. It's a brand new cable so he must have wanted it to work. As the Cub has bolt on inner wings with the rad out of the way i've loads or room to access the cable. (I say loads, enough to do the job !!)

In other news i've just got back from having the roof measured for fitment. They have said it will be ready end of March so getting excited now. Certainly interesting watching them make the template from scratch. I took a few pics so will add in due course. I also called my painter friend and he says if I do the prep work he can fit me in in 2 weeks so the pressure really is on !!!

[spider]

Nice work on your Project, been watching it for a while, I like the way your going about things.

Couldnt get the speedo cable to fit. It has a Metro 1275 engine from 1989 and s standard speedo head from a Mini Traveller. Cable fits the speedo but not the gearbox drive - any ideas or help greatly appreciated?

The Speedo Take Offs on the Gearboxes were all the same, from 1959 through to 2000, including the Metro range (3/4' dia x 25 TPI) , however, is it the threaded bit you're having trouble with or the inner cable actually going in to the drive?

Thanks for the comments - I can fit the collar on no problem, the square cable does not want to fit in. Looking at it, it looks like something else is in the adapter (has a smaller square than the cable) I'm unsure what a genuine one would look like to compare. I tried to remove the drive from the gearbox but again no joy. I'll have another look and see if I can understand why it wont fit. I'll try and image and add to this.

Cheers.

Some of the after market Cables I've found a little on the big side, and some of the replacement Pinions (the bit in the gearbox that the cable goes in to) I've found are too small for a stock cable, this sounds like it maybe the issue you have or an old cable has been broken off in there.

You can get the Pinion out, while the engine is in. If you slip the drive shaft out of the LH Pot Joint, then jack that side of the Cub up a good 500 mm off the ground, you should be able to remove the Pot Joint from the gearbox with the Oil spewing everywhere (or you could drain the Oil). You can then get your hand up there on the Gearbox to remove the bolt from the Adapter. If the Adapter is stuck on the gasket you should be able to get a dolly in through the wheel arch to give it a tap on it's base to free it. Then it should be a simple matter of lifting the Pinion out.

While it's like this, when you re-assemble, you can get the Speedo Cable on fairly easily before refitting the Pot Joint

[Drake]

Some of the after market Cables I've found a little on the big side, and some of the replacement Pinions (the bit in the gearbox that the cable goes in to) I've found are too small for a stock cable, this sounds like it maybe the issue you have or an old cable has been broken off in there.

You can get the Pinion out, while the engine is in. If you slip the drive shaft out of the LH Pot Joint, then jack that side of the Cub up a good 500 mm off the ground, you should be able to remove the Pot Joint from the gearbox with the Oil spewing everywhere (or you could drain the Oil). You can then get your hand up there on the Gearbox to remove the bolt from the Adapter. If the Adapter is stuck on the gasket you should be able to get a dolly in through the wheel arch to give it a tap on it's base to free it. Then it should be a simple matter of lifting the Pinion out.

While it's like this, when you re-assemble, you can get the Speedo Cable on fairly easily before refitting the Pot Joint

Thanks Spider, the first part makes sense regards the oversize cable. See pictures below.







Basically they show what I'm up against and I took one to show the room I have - so providing part A fits part B I wont have an issue fitting.

Some more pics added of progress, they basically will give it away what the project will look like but i'll leave you to guess that!!

3x Handles to be fitted (only n/s/f to finish off)



Battery cover - this is just fake as I didnt see the need for access to battery box via this route !



And images of the frame - shows the extra corners grafted on.





original AMC bumper cut down to match the standard type, I was going to order original ones however as i've stated before, i'm not after an out and out copy. If that was my aim i'd i've sourced an original Moke and my funds will not stretch to that.



Rear cubby hole modified - original Cub design is for a lift up panel, the rear seats originally tilt on a frame however that would have made the rear seats sit too high and is simply unnecessary. I've fixed 1/2 the original lid and hinged the back part. I'll fit a cubby lock to secure. Plenty of room in here (remember it doesn't run a Mini subframe hence the room)



So that leads me to the next bit - all this rush was to have the car ready to take to the roof fitters for a bespoke roof. Again these pictures may indicate what i'm doing but i'll let you decide. It was great to see the guys at work but by eck it was a long day. I set off early Monday with the car trailer borrowed from my mate who lives in Halifax. Went over to Otley to have the roof measured. Then went home after about 4 hours ish. However I couldnt get the trailer back to Halifax as the M62 was closed !! it wasnt reopened until 7pm so set off then dropped trailer off and back home for 9.30 ish - long day !!!! but glad that roof is now in the process of being made. I've a fitting date of early April so that gives me enough time to get this car up and running as i'd like to drive it over for the roof fit!!!

Anyways i'll let the pictures do the talking, basically they have made a template to my design.Lots of discussions and compromise but in the end i'm pleased with the final draft. I have been left with fitting the fixings to the screen frame ready for them to finigh off in April.







Bonus point if you know what the wings are off in the background !!







ANd thats it for now - have a nice day all

[Nigel(no top)Sykes]

So....you went to see canvasman did you They are just down the road from me (in fact my daughter lives next door but one to there) I'll be parking my van on that rough patch tonight when I go see her.
Other thing is, I bet you had fun getting up the lane

[Drake]

So....you went to see canvasman did you They are just down the road from me (in fact my daughter lives next door but one to there) I'll be parking my van on that rough patch tonight when I go see her.
Other thing is, I bet you had fun getting up the lane

yep, they gave me the feel good factor and close enough for me. Based on the initial measuring I'm very impressed with the attention to detail. They were not the cheapest and it's starting to rack up on the costs but im still less than a project Moke. And yes that lane was tight, I know the area reasonably well as I used to work in Bramhope so knew it was tight for access. The guys at canvas man just told me which way to approach it. Still had a guy in a Shogun blocking 1/2 the road. Squeezed through just.

[Parismoke]

Hello

I am having a similar 1987 Andersen Cub (it was orange red) refurbished up in not very sunny Cumbria and wondered if you could let me know what you did with the hood on your moke and what state it is in as we are having difficulty determining if anybody can help us. Have you got that far yet?

I will try and see if I can insert some pictures of mine.

Thx

[Drake]

Hello

I am having a similar 1987 Andersen Cub (it was orange red) refurbished up in not very sunny Cumbria and wondered if you could let me know what you did with the hood on your moke and what state it is in as we are having difficulty determining if anybody can help us. Have you got that far yet?

I will try and see if I can insert some pictures of mine.

Thx

Hi - yes please post pictures, people here are very welcolming to the Cub. Regards the hood and frame, I am no longer using the Anderson supplied frame - I still have the full original frame (freshly powder coated black) and also the hood. I dont plan to use it so if you want it for a sensible sum please let me know.
I've used the original english Moke roof hoops and brackets and I am having the roof specially made at a company in Otley. It's due for fitting in a few weeks time so happy to share my experiance when done.
Regards the Cub, I have a fair bit of info and also a database of known cubs so if you are happy to PM your reg i'll see if it is on my list and if I have any pics of it. If you need any extra info please let me know.

Anyways back to the build -welded the trailer light holes up on each side and drilled the holes to accept the round Lucas style lights.


Also welded the number plate light holes and a random hole in rear panel !


Same on the N/S


Also finished the last of the seat belt mounts - all now welded in front and rear seats.


Then onto the N/S pontoon. Removed the decals and I am now fitting 3 standard size panels. This was easier than welding in a Moke side and should still give the desired look and an extra (minor) storage.


Measured



Cut



Fitted - quite like it myself and pretty chuffed.



Oh and remember the speedo cable - Spider was spot on and now fitted - YEAH.



Now onto the tedious job of prep for paint











All panels ready for paint





Now a question. It currently has 5.5x 13 weller steel wheels. The rears fit within the arch however the fronts stick out by about 1/2". I have 175 50 13 tyres fitted
I am not a fan of the look and I sourced some very cheep 12x5 minilights. However I prefer the 13" wheel and I have a set of 4 nearly new tyres that are 13".
So do I purchase a set of 5.5x13 minilites and fit spacers to the rear drums (or a spaced drum) or do I ditch the 13" wellers and tyres and go for a 13x5 wheel (still need to space rear so track is the same front and rear. Or obtain tyres for the 12"?
The engine and box is standard 1275 1989 Metro - any help appreciated.