Distributors

[bevsimmons]

the points on my Californian keep closing up causing missfire and then cutting out. fitted new points condensor leads plugs cap and rotor arm and also new coil. Mechanic thinks Distributor is worn/faulty and should be replaced. Is it worth moving to electronic or should I keep it original.If electronic any advice on the best one to use and any pros or cons. Just want to use my moke now winter is gone. By the way problem not carb related as just fitted fully reconditioned su carb from Burlen.
thanks
Bev Simmons

[grantourer]

Electronic is the way to go. I used an Aldon on my Aussie. keep the original, then you can if needed use it. They are not cheap, but are reliable.

https://www.aldonauto.co.uk/productlist.aspx?SID=1

[bevsimmons]

thanks Graham. Have used Aldon on Fords and as you say they are very reliable but thought more suitable for tuned engines. Mini spares are selling one at £100 which they claim is top quality - any one used them? Also requires a new compatible coil. Seen some previous chat on the forum re ballast resistors - does a 1981 Californian have ballast resisted coil? Also Mini Spares website mentions pre A plus engines without clarifying what they are or when they were introduced, don't want to order the wrong one! thanks again for your help.
Bev

[Tim]

A+ engines have a different distributor drive and clamping attachment so you need the correct style for your engine. A+ plus engines were very rare in Australia, but apparently they did start using them right at the end of production, so yours could have one. They have extra ribs on the block that make them easy to identify. They were introduced in 1980, but you can't assume anything from that. Moke production in Australia was pretty ad-hoc by that time. The company was virtually bankrupt and they were basically building them out of an old shed, so they wouldn't have been too fussed about what engine they put in.

Tim

[bevsimmons]

thanks Tim. I bought the car from Leo Jack and he confirms it has an A+ engine so will fit the A+ electronic distributor. Can I presume it doesn't have a ballast resistor? Thanks for your help.
Bev

[Tim]

Sorry Bev, I'm not familiar enough with later Mokes to know whether they have a ballast resistor or not. My understanding is that later Minis that have a ballast resistor have a special resistance wire to the ignition coil which is white with a pink stripe, whereas non-ballasted ignition wire should be plain white. The existing coil may have voltage marked on it too. Ballasted coils operate at something like 9V whereas normal coils operate at nominal 12V.

Tim

[Nigel(no top)Sykes]

I seem to recall that the pink/white wire is pretty much completely hidden by being wrapped inside the loom tape.

[Tim]

Probably, but I'd expect the end of it to be exposed where it connects to the positive terminal of the coil.

Tim

[Nigel(no top)Sykes]

That’s just it. It wasn’t, it comprised of a length of pink/white hidden in the loom with white at the exposed ends. The loom had never been unwrapped and they were soldered joins so it lead me to think it was a factory job.

[Tim]

Oh I see.

The length of the white/pink matters, as it has a resistance of so many ohms per metre. Perhaps if it was the full length its resistance would be too high? Alternatively maybe it isn't very flexible?

Apparently you can measure the resistance across the terminals of the coil. 3 Ohms = unballasted, 1.5 Ohms = ballasted. The problem is that even 3 Ohms is nearly nothing, so you'd want very good contact of your meter's probes with the terminals. Any dirt or corrosion will give a dud reading.

Tim