LCB or Maniflow?

[Richard King]

Hi
I'm upgrading my 1986 Portuguese Moke to a MG Metro engine - should I be using the Metro manifold or LCB or Maniflow ? I understand there are clearance issues around the gearchange but is this just on Australian?
I was planning to use a RC40 twin box system as I dont want it too noisy - apart from longevity are there any benefits to stainless?
Your advice will be appreciated
Cheers
Richard

[PJ]

should I be using the Metro manifold or LCB or Maniflow ?

When you say 'Maniflow', I assume you mean their 3 branch, often refered to as 'Cooper 3 branch' although Maniflow make a range of LCBs as well.

I have no experience of the Portugese gear linkage but I believe you'll have as much clearance as an Aussie, if not more.

1) MG Metro manifold:
Not as 'sexy' as a tubular job but remember that (ignoring the turbo) the MG Metro had the highest output of any production A-series engine: it's a good manifold, and used with a tubular lower section (eg Minispares C-AEG367) it is effectively an LCB with a cast-iron top section.

2) LCB (long centre branch):
In my days of messing about with hot Minis (early '70s), LCBs were regarded as being primarily a race system and most people covetted the Cooper 3 branch (also used on twin carb versions of the 1100, eg MG) which had 3 (approx) equal length primaries. Nowadays LCBs seem to be the default choice for most Mini owners - what's changed? Trouble with LCBs is that the 'Y' piece takes up a lot of space immediately behind the diff housing (a problem with all Minis but particularly the Aussie Moke with the short rod-change) - they also have a reputation for being difficult to seal in this area.

3) Maniflow 3 Branch:
Actually a sort of 'medium length centre branch' and quite different from the original Cooper 3 branch. I am in the process of fitting one of these (with a HIF44) and should be able to report back in a couple of weeks. I chose it because it is supposed to be a little better for torque and mid-range power at the expense of a bit of top-end (6500+, who really uses that on a road car?) and should fit properly given that there is a Moke-specific system. There are single- and twin-box options: I've gone for the twin box - more suitable for 'a gentleman of advanced years'!!! I would expect this to fit a Portuguese without problems but don't take my word for it - must be someone out there who's done it, or speak to Maniflow (very helpful people)

Stainless Steel v Mild Steel:
After discussion with Maniflow I've gone for a stainless manifold and mild steel for the rest of it.
Stainless for the manifold because stainless does not conduct or radiate heat as much as mild steel, so it keeps the engine bay temperature down (cooler air is denser air, so more power) and exhaust gas temperature up (good for gas flow). I shall also use a thermal wrap to improve matters further. Mild steel for the system under the floor because it is thicker and resonates at a different frequency giving a deeper, less tinny and quieter exhaust note. Thermal considerations are less of an issue back here, and although it will eventually rust (unlike stainless) I expect it to last a good few years, by which time I'll probably be wanting to try something different anyway. Incidentally, cast iron absorbs the noise better than either (more of a benefit in a saloon) but is worse for heat dissipation.

PJ

[Richard King]

Thanks PJ for your reply - very helpful.

I'm going to use the Metro manifold with down pipes into mild steel twin box RC40
Many thanks
Richard

[Dean]

The "Clearance issue" with the gear change came about in late 1979 when the floor pressing was altered on the Moke to allow for the planned introduction of a 4WD model (allegedly). This resulted in the gear change unit being moved further away from the engine by a few inches using longer selector rods/steady bars.
This made the distance between gear change unit and gearbox different than other Mokes and Minis meaning that "off the shelf" Mini exhaust systems do not fit these Mokes easily (the gear change unit sits in the way of the pipe on most systems).
There have been workarounds tried in the past such as moving the gear change unit to the other side of the tunnel (which has involved enlarging the gear lever hole by some).
I had Maniflow make me a custom system some years ago using their Cooper Freeflow/single box 1 3/4" system and that fitted well (and performed brilliantly). I believe they can still supply the necessary parts for that setup as a single or twin box system (I'm hoping to repeat the setup on my current Moke in the near future) but as you are fitting an MG Metro 1275 unit, an LCB would probably be more suitable. I'm not familiar with the Metro cast system though so can't comment on that.
Dean

[Tim]

The clearance issue exists on earlier rod-change mokes too, there just isn't enough room between the bottom of the selector and the side of the exhaust tunnel. Genuine exhausts have a kink in them and only just fit, but if you want to increase the diameter of the pipe you run out of room. I had a bend made up by an exhaust place to go round the gear selector, but you lose a littl ebut of ground clearance.

Tim

[Richard King]

I've now fitted my new exhaust - Maniflow Cooper freeflow manifold followed by twin box RC40. It sounds great not too loud just a deep burble. I had the pipe bent to fit alongside the gear selector box so its all tucked nicely into the tunnnel. I had to move the gearlever over and enlarge hole in floor but otherwise went well. I will try to add photos but it looks similar to Gizmokes installation.
Richard

[NiceMini]

hey guys, ive just got my shell back from the painters and am about to tackle the exhaust manifold issue, its a 73 aussie with the stumpy rod change.

So far ive collected together a maniflow cooper manifold (bargain at min-its £55), the curly manifold adapter pipe and a play mini stainless side exit box and link pipe,

Ive just had a shufty through the pictures on the gallery, i didnt realise how the manifold adaptor fits, mine is going to be dropped on its hiney and the kerb on my drive is huge so im going to have to try and get imaginative with it

if anyone has any ideas im open to them, im not going to cut my freshly painted floor!

so far im thinking about a horseshow shape linkage back mount right up in the tunnel so i can tuck the pipe underneath and try and keep it up in the tunnel as much as possible

[Steve]

Hi Dan,

I'm hoping to start fitting my Maniflow system within the next month-ish, I bought the link pipe just in case, but if I can get away without fitting it I will. Looking in the tech gallery, there may be options.

My Cooper manifold was only £40.25 inc vat from Maniflow at the begining of December, so may be worth having a look around.

[Richard King]

Hi
I managed to get my exhaust above the gearchange support bracket by redrilling holes for the gearchange rubber mountand moving to the side. Although I had to enlarge the hole it was only a small amount and the rubber gaiter still fits as original. I had to get the Maniflow down pipe and rear pipe heated to bend them but it was worth it as it is tucked in the tunnel out of harms way
Good luck
Richard

[PJ]

I bought the full Maniflow system (Stainless manifold, mild-steel for the rest which included a centre box and a DTM style rear box) which, in my opinion gives good performance, is excessively noisy and a very poor fit. The 'S' section had to be swung right down to stop it fouling the body and subframe, and is now vulnerable to speed-bumps and curbs. I also had a problem in that the main staight pipe/centre silencer ran out from the centre-line of the car at about 5 degrees. As this all came to light on the evening before Hollowell I couldn't take it back to Maniflow or bend any pipes (too thick walled to bend cold) so I bodged it with a piece of old Harley pipe to replace the single bend piece. Like all good bodges that work (passed it's MOT on 23/12 so it must be o.k ), this hasn't been re-done properly yet, but I've just been given the name of a local exhaust specialist, with tube benders etc, so I will try to get it re-routed, possibly above the gearchange bracket as Richard has done. Will post again with pictures if successful.

PJ

[Steve]

#0000BF]All good stuff to know, it sounds like it wont be a straight fit but hey, we are talking about Moke's here.

Photos would be GooD [/color]

[NiceMini]

i found this when browsing the other night, a few variations from our australian counterparts,

http://www.moke.com.au/modifications-an ... it-exhaust
i like the look of the last one, i think it has potentional although it does look like the tunnel has been trimmed out to accomodate it which i really really want to avoid!

[Dean]

I bought the full Maniflow system (Stainless manifold, mild-steel for the rest which included a centre box and a DTM style rear box) which, in my opinion gives good performance, is excessively noisy and a very poor fit. The 'S' section had to be swung right down to stop it fouling the body and subframe, and is now vulnerable to speed-bumps and curbs. I also had a problem in that the main staight pipe/centre silencer ran out from the centre-line of the car at about 5 degrees. As this all came to light on the evening before Hollowell I couldn't take it back to Maniflow or bend any pipes (too thick walled to bend cold) so I bodged it with a piece of old Harley pipe to replace the single bend piece. Like all good bodges that work (passed it's MOT on 23/12 so it must be o.k ), this hasn't been re-done properly yet, but I've just been given the name of a local exhaust specialist, with tube benders etc, so I will try to get it re-routed, possibly above the gearchange bracket as Richard has done. Will post again with pictures if successful.

PJ

What year is your Moke PJ?
Dean

[PJ]

1982

[PJ]

johng - you had a go at me about the lengths of my posts, so I kept this one short: look what happened, it stopped the thread dead in its tracks!

Still building myself up for the 'full page post'

PJ