Question about stowing a hood

[Robin Jones]

Okay, I'm probably being dense again. I haven't bothered purchasing a new hood yet because I didn't like the way my original took up so much room when folded.
Lately I've seen a couple of pictures* of Mokes with the top bows folded back and the hood nowhere in sight.... I'm just wondering if there's an easy way to accomplish this. My hood was secured to the bows & the rear of the Moke with some sheet metal screws. Not my idea of a fun way to attach/remove a hood.
I've toyed with the idea of using snap fasteners to replace the screws but have been told they'll pop off at speed. (Really, what kind of speed can a Moke make?)
Any ideas? Links to pictures to show how it's done?

*-link to a Moke currently on flea-bay. Bows shown folded with no top attached.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/classic-briti ... 53e95d2ced

[Nigel(no top)Sykes]

I may be being dense here, but I can't find a link in your post
As to speed ...My Aussie trundles along at 70 - 80 mph..... If the hoods up it's like diving in a tent (so it's usually not up)

[MiniCord]

Robin,

The hood doesn't take that much room, really. If you remove the top and leave the bows, not only they will rattle like crazy, the will damage the paintwork too.

Not the best shots to show, but it gives you an idea. Buying that hood is the best investment I have done in the Moke, and I use it more than I thought I would, specially when it's cold.





Miguel

[Steve]

Robin, instead of snap fasteners ... try turn button fasteners.

[Robin Jones]

I may be being dense here, but I can't find a link in your post
As to speed ...My Aussie trundles along at 70 - 80 mph..... If the hoods up it's like diving in a tent (so it's usually not up)

Not only am I dense, but I'm thick headed and forgetful..... I've edited the original post to add the link.... That this cement head sent to someone else in an e-mail by mistake....

And Minicord, I still say that's one nice Moke!

[Robin Jones]

Robin, instead of snap fasteners ... try turn button fasteners.

I've also thought about the turn buttons at the rear.... Maybe I could just mount the bows to the Moke with quick release pins. Might make it a two man operation to remove it to avoid messing up the paintwork.... Anybody tried it that way?

[Tim]

I guess its just personal opinion, but I don't like the look of just the roof bars folded down. I reckon it looks untidy, or like the owner has forgotten something. Mokes do look good with the top off altogether, but I actually reckon they look better with the top folded down (and neatly tied down). I use a pair of orange bungy cords over mine and it sits down nice and flat without blowing back and covering the registration plate. The side covers are rolled up in a cylindrical bag that is stowed under the roof. That way the roof is there ready for unexpected downpours or for when I park it outdoors.

Tim

[bnicho]

Where do you attach the bungee cords Tim? I've tried various ways to hold the folded top from flapping at speed when the rear seat is removed. I'm not entirely happy with any of them.

Cheers,

[MiniCord]

Hey Robin,

Thanks, my Moke just pictures nicely, you can't see the dings and scratches in them lol

Believe me when I say that the bows by themselves are not a good idea. Just give it a try and you'll see what I mean. You need the hood to cushon the bows so they don't rattle or hit the bodywork.

My hood fits nicely in the trunk area, tied with two lift-a-dots located on the rear fenders, and connect to the end liftadots on the hood. there's even space to hide little objects on the trunk when is folded.

Miguel

[Tim]

Brett, I use relatively long bungy cords and clip them under the leading edge of the raised rear floor thingy, over the top of the folded roof then over the transom' to where the bupper mounts. Sometimes when I'm feeling lazy I just clip them to the rear mudguard flare because on the LHS its hard to reach the bumper mounts with the spare in the way.

I once tried clipping short ones through the lift the dot holes in the front edge of the roof to the front edge of the load floor, but it was very unsuccessful, like a drag racer's parachute really.

Its important to get colour coordinated bungy cords. I keep an eye out for orange ones when I'm at the hardware shop.

Tim

[bnicho]

I once tried clipping short ones through the lift the dot holes in the front edge of the roof to the front edge of the load floor, but it was very unsuccessful, like a drag racer's parachute really.

That's exactly what I have been doing. The rear of my top is static where it meets the body at the back (no fancy Cali style zip-up rear hatch on my humble Moke), so I've considered replacing some of the screws with eyelets or hooks to give the bungee somewhere to attach.

I put some lift-the-dot posts across the back of the rear seat backrest to attach the front edge of the top to. But that only works when the rear seat is fitted.

Its important to get colour coordinated bungy cords. I keep an eye out for orange ones when I'm at the hardware shop.

Agreed, mine are yellow with black stripes.

Cheers,

[Tim]

That's exactly what I have been doing. The rear of my top is static where it meets the body at the back (no fancy Cali style zip-up rear hatch on my humble Moke), so I've considered replacing some of the screws with eyelets or hooks to give the bungee somewhere to attach.

That should work, a pair of nice little stainless eyes would be very neat and tidy.

Tim