REWIRING

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Doug G
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Joined: Sun Sep 17, 2006 14:44
Location: Caribbean

REWIRING

Post by Doug G »

I have a circa 1973 Aussie style Mini Moke. After +/-48 years think it is time to rewire it.

However I am NOT particularly electrically minded or proficient.

I obtained a complete loom (from Australia). Even has an extra line for an electric fuel pump.

Have asked around the local 'electricians'. One, a lecturer of car mechanics at the local college, is reluctant to try, even to use it as a subject car for the class to do.
The next best chap appears to be fairly competent on alternators etc, but declined saying it would take (a year) too long and is too difficult. Yep he said that.
He also warned me against two others that purport to be car electricians. Good for him.
My son got two others young men (probably never seen a Mini Moke close up before) who came to see it but never came back, despite promises and calls to them.
Offered a (competent and knowledgeable) friend US$1,000.00 to do it but he has declined, citing friendship and a load of excuses.

THUS If you want something done and done right - do it yourself.

SO I am looking for a good clear video, and or a set of very detailed instructions (for a complete novice/idiot) on how to do the rewiring.
EG Where do I start, at ignition, battery, where
and how to proceed step by step. Where is the center and how to progress from there.

All suggestions welcome.
Having a moking good time!
Willie_B
Posts: 181
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2012 2:38

Re: REWIRING

Post by Willie_B »

The first thing would be to get a good wiring diagram in color, preferably 11"x17". Then look at the condition of all the grommets that the harness passes through. They would most likely be hard and not flexible enough to pull the new harness through so that involves replacing them also. As I just found out on my new build there are a bunch of different sizes used. Hole in the body size and hole needed for the harness. On my 1966 english moke there are 5 holes on the left side from the firewall to the end of the pontoon that the harness goes through, 4 different size body holes were used!!!
The actual job of replacing the harness would take a few days if you have the needed bits. There is not really THAT much to it compared to a mini.
Live Laugh Moke
rjgy
Posts: 24
Joined: Sat Sep 23, 2017 6:29

Re: REWIRING

Post by rjgy »

Hi
I re-wired my Aussie moke about 18 months ago having completely rebuilt it from ground up!
I'm assuming that you already have some if not all of the electrical components i.e., lights, wiper motor, fuel pump, dashboard/speedometer, fuse box etc, etc.
As already advised a really clear wiring diagram is essential. By using this you can identify which wires go where. Once I'd located the right coloured wire for the side lights (red & green I think) for example I put labels stating 'side lights' 'tail lights' on all the wires at the extremities, plus the feed wire that went into the central console light switch. Once you've got all the wire identified and labelled the diagram starts to make sense regarding location.
You shouldn't have to cut or alter very much as the specific wires will have been supplied at the right length with a spade lug already fitted.
Be patient and good luck.
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Tim
Posts: 2284
Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 0:41
Location: Hobart, Tasmania, Australia

Re: REWIRING

Post by Tim »

Normally the loom is in two halves with a bundle of joiners where the rear loom that goes back to the tail lights, and fuel tank joins on to the front loom. The bulk of the wiring comes together in the dash/speedo housing. The loom is at its thickest there too. That's where I usually start. Get all of the switches and light bulbs hooked up, then work outwards.

The fiddliest part is getting the rear loom in. You really need to drop the fuel tank out, it runs along the top corner of the pannier box section and you can't really get it through with the tank in place.

Otherwise its pretty easy, take your time and use a decent quality wiring diagram. New looms are much more flexible than old hardened ones so they tend to fit more easily. Its helpful to have a multimeter to check continuity, but not neccessary.

If you need to crimp new connectors onto the loom, use quality ones. I'm not a fan of the red blue and yellow plastic insulated ones. They don't crimp reliably unless you have a very good quality crimping tool.

Use these:
Image

not these:
Image

Tim
Any sarcastic, ignorant, libellous, unfounded or stupid opinions expressed in or through this message are the opinions of the author and do not reflect the opinions or views of any member of The Mini Moke Club or the opinions or views of any other individual.
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Doug G
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Joined: Sun Sep 17, 2006 14:44
Location: Caribbean

Re: REWIRING

Post by Doug G »

The replacement loom arrived from Australia. Well done chaps.

Due to my complete hands off approach to electrical works [shocking isn't it] and also due my inability to find an electrical (auto) chap willing to do it here I have relinquished the rewiring of the Mini Moke to my son.

He has found a Bajan chap in Nevis.

So for +/-US$400.00 (labour) the Mini Moke is being completely rewired. I think it will be closer to US$500.00. :!:

When stripping wiring out of the Mini Moke he was rather appalled with the state of the wiring and was surprised that the Mini Moke had not burst into flames. :o :o :o
Having a moking good time!
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Tim
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Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 0:41
Location: Hobart, Tasmania, Australia

Re: REWIRING

Post by Tim »

Sounds like my wiring loom. Mine has more patches than original wiring loom I reckon. Still works fine though.

Tim
Any sarcastic, ignorant, libellous, unfounded or stupid opinions expressed in or through this message are the opinions of the author and do not reflect the opinions or views of any member of The Mini Moke Club or the opinions or views of any other individual.
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Doug G
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Joined: Sun Sep 17, 2006 14:44
Location: Caribbean

Re: REWIRING

Post by Doug G »

it is still being attended to.
Having a moking good time!
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