Moke mods and tips

[Willie_B]

I made a few mods while building my 1966 english moke. Thought I would share now I am close to finishing the build part.

When it came time to mount the wiper motor I used longer stainless steel allen screws loctited into the motor to mount, with the allen end towards the motor. Then have a nicer end to put the nuts on.

[Willie_B]

Well, Warp Drive is the speed of light and I am turning on the headlights...

[Willie_B]

I missed welding a nut on before primer so I installed a nutsert/rivnut. Then under cut the nut to fit over the flared part. A bit of epoxy and good to go.

[Willie_B]

I am not a big badge fan. So to be able to have a badge for a car show I glued a thin layer of steel on the rear of a badge, then cut the head off the small rivet that would have been used and glued that to the badge front. On the inside of the front panel I put two rare earth magnets. The magnets are strong enough to hold the badge on anytime I want to display one.

[Willie_B]

I am using a smaller battery so needed a way to raise it up a bit and cover the rest of that area. I used a cheap plastic cutting board cut to fit.

[Willie_B]

The locating pin for the magic wand shifter was getting replaced. I don't understand why the hex end is SO small. That is not a problem after welding a nut to the end first.

[Willie_B]

To check the wiring harness before use I made a bypass harness with a fuse. Start with a 5 amp fuse for the low draw items and step up in size for the headlights. No smoke surprises when the battery is hooked up. Yes, I do have a battery hold down bar, just not in there yet.

[Willie_B]

Glued a rare earth magnet on the steering column plug. Holds it out of the way with no scratched paint from the usual slide on clip.

[Willie_B]

Tidy up the excess wires on the rear signal lamps. A longer hex nut on the back of the rear reflector with an eye on the other end. Run the wires up and through to the lamps.

[Willie_B]

In an english moke they are no places to carry things like insurance and reg paperwork. I glued some magnets to the inside of a few heavy duty slide seal bags to be able to stick them to the bottom side of the seats.

[Willie_B]

I am using flex lines from the masters. As the moke is LHD the lines need to go across the bulkhead. I used longer screws on two of the dash binnacle screws so I can attach line holders on the engine side. I am trying to keep the mods completely removable as the value is climbing on these so no new holes anywhere.

[Willie_B]

With new paint I really did not like the idea of the bonnet resting on the lift the dot pegs. Got an idea from another moker for a prop rod. Bent 1/4" aluminum rod to fit. Standard plastic catch on one end and made a pivot for the other. An angle bracket on the bonnet and a clip to keep it in place for extended periods. Both the mounted parts on the front panel are installed with rivets that are under the cloth rub strip so hidden when open or if ever removed.

[Willie_B]

I added extra gauges to the bottom of the dash binnacle. I wanted to hide the wires and fluid lines so found some large tubing that is a snug fit over the gauge holder. The headache of this is all the wiring and lines have to go through the tubes before installing the gauge. Other than being a snug fit on the gauge holder there is nothing else holding it in, just tucked up with all the other stuff in there.

[Willie_B]

Needed a cushion in the side bins. Found this woven plastic material that is made for gym showers and pool sides. Even comes in colors so got fancy and used blue. It is a little over 1/2" thick.

[Willie_B]

Mirrors do not seem to be available at the moment. I found metal backed ones that are also convex so have have a better view of what's over there. Just scuff, mask and paint with black paint and nobody knows.